So, now that you've got a dog, uppermost in your mind is housebreaking. Just how will you get the dog "to go" when and where you want him to?

The following pages will assist you in being able to determine when the dog has to go. If you can anticipate the dog's needs, you can teach the dog WHERE to urinate and defecate, thereby minimizing house soiling. A (1) sensible feeding and walking schedule coupled with (2) supervision when home and (3) confinement when not home will have most dogs reliably housebroken within 6 to 12 weeks.

THE NEW DOG

A dog that is new to your home will need time to adjust. That can take from 6 to 12 weeks depending on the dog's age and level of confidence. Even if the dog's previous owner stated that the dog was housebroken, he will need supervision and guidance. Each dog is an individual and will respond differently to having new caretakers, living in a new environment (indoors and out) and getting used to a new routine. Changes in diet and exercise are contributing factors along with excitability and anxiety.

THE SAME OLD DOG

The dog that was never fully housebroken (he has accidents daily, weekly or monthly) should be treated like a brand new unhousebroken dog. Remember, old habits can be difficult to break; the dog may become confused by or resistant to a change in his normal way of doing things. Stick to the method for a minimum of 12 weeks. Even if things are looking real good, keep up the schedule and the intensive supervision.

GETTING STARTED

Whenever a dog eats or drinks, he sets in motion a digestive sequence that often ends up with elimination. This is the GASTRO-COLIC REFLEX. What this means to you is: shortly after finishing his meal, the dog will have to go to the bathroom. It can be anywhere within a 30 minute period. So, when he's done eating, don't let him roam all over the house. Don't let him out of your sight. Have a leash ready. Watch for signs that the dog has to relieve himself. Intense sniffing, pacing back and forth and/or circling are signs that the dog "has to go". Young males squat when they urinate. Adult males will lift a hind leg on a vertical surface (doorway, table leg or corner of a dresser or soft) to urinate. If you feed the dog at the same time each day, you will be able to see a clear pattern of behaviour develop. The number of meals per day that you feed the dog will figure into the total number of times you can expect to take the dog out on a toilet mission. Feeding a highly digestible, premium formula food (i.e. Purina Pro Plan, Science Diet, Nutro Max) greatly assists in getting and keeping the dog on a schedule. If you can't follow after the dog, CRATE OR TETHER the dog (see information that follows).

Many dogs will need to urinate after waking from a long nap or an overnight sleep. Once again, supervision is key. If you don't see the dog wake up, you may miss him as he heads off to relieve himself. Always have a leash handy so you can hurry the dog outdoors. Vigorous play can stimulate a dog to urinate, too. A young dog may have trouble controlling the urge; he may squat suddenly, urinate and then resume play. Watch carefully, he may give little or no warning. Some dogs use urine and feces to mark territorial boundaries. Even a young puppy may feel compelled to establish and protect his territory. This type of soiling (not related to the gastro-colic reflex) can happen during the night if you sleep in separate quarters from the dog or when you leave the dog alone in the house. Dogs are quite social. Many dogs, especially a surrendered or abandoned shelter dog, became stressed out and anxious when separated from their new family. Unneutered males often lift their leg indoors, not because they "have to go", but rather in the spirit of posting a "no trespassing sign".

GOTCHA!

If you catch the dog in the act, a deep firm "NO" is all that is needed to communicate your displeasure. If you succeeded in interrupting the process, get the dog outdoors quickly; you'll clean up when you get back (see CLEANUP). Hitting the dog or rubbing his face in his waste is not only unnecessary, it is an offensive and damaging gesture. Intimidation tactics work against relationships based on mutual trust and respect. Teach by demonstration. Communicate dissatisfaction verbally. Supervision is essential. The dog is always learning, even when you are not actively teaching. A dog that is improperly supervised (you find more accidents than you see) may become confused as to whether or not he can eliminate indoors. Sometimes he gets yelled at, sometimes he doesn't. A dog that is carefully monitored understands very quickly what he can and cannot do; he usually becomes reliable within a month or so